On the Merchants' Trail

One of the most spectacular sections of the historic Via Spluga, the centuries-old trade route linking Chiavenna to Thusis across the Spluga Pass. A loop hike in the upper Valle Spluga combining two trails on opposite sides of the Liro torrent — climbing through the dramatic Sentiero del Cardinello, a stone ledge carved into the gorge, and descending along the quieter upper trail past Torni. We start from Isola (1,268 m), a small lakeside village above Campodolcino, and walk up through the stone hamlets of Mottaletta and Rasdeglia, where the traditional carden — old log cabins of fir, larch and chestnut, dovetailed at the corners — still stand. From here the track narrows and enters the Cardinello gorge: a stone ledge cut into the cliff for over 500 metres, climbing slowly above the torrent. The trail is wide and well-built, equipped with handrails on the most exposed sections — possibly already used in Roman times, and famously crossed in December 1800 by Napoleon's Macdonald Division on its winter march into Italy, with heavy losses to avalanches in the most exposed stretches. Once out of the gorge we emerge at Stuetta (1,870 m), under the Montespluga dam, with sweeping views of the Alta Valle Spluga. Lunch stop here (packed lunch), with time to take in the views before the descent. For the descent we take the upper trail along the left bank of the Liro, passing through the scattered houses of Torni — a quieter, sun-soaked alternative to the Cardinello, with sweeping views down into the valley as we lose altitude back to Isola.